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Harvesting -
Preparing -
Storing - Planting -
Requirements |
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In this topic, we are using the term
"bulb" the way the general public uses it. The common
definition of the term includes true
bulbs,
corms,
tuber,
tuberous roots,
rhizomes and other structures.
These structures we will call bulbs are all meant to be
perennials. That is, their life cycle should be more
than two years in their native environments. They have
developed the ability to go dormant for periods of the
year in order to survive either cold temperatures or dry
conditions.
In
temperate regions where frost
is part of the yearly cycle, many types of bulbs are
perfectly hardy including
tulips,
daffodils,
lilies,
fritillaries,
muscari and many others. However, many
bulb species have been imported into this part of the
world from tropical and subtropical zones. These plants,
although perennial at home, must be protected from the
cold if we expect to get multiple years of beauty from
them.
We call these plants tender bulbs
and they include
cannas,
dahlias,
gladiolus, tuberous
begonias, calla lily, caladium, freesia, tuberose and
others. The choice is to treat these plants as "annuals"
and replace them every year or figure out how to store
them so that they survive the winter.
Although these plants represent a
large variety of types, there are certain factors that
are consistent for all:
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Harvesting the
Bulbs |
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One common trait of all of
these plants is that they will die back to the
ground when exposed to frost temperatures in fall.
Some foliage will die with a hint of frost while
others will survive into the high 20 degree range
but they all will lose their foliage.
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At that point, it is time to
dig the bulbs from the ground. This should be done
carefully to prevent damage to the bulb which can
lead to rots. A spading fork is well adapted to this
process. Start digging several inches away from the
bulb to avoid damage.
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When the plants are out of
the ground, gently knock off any loose soil and cut
the foliage down to within an inch of the bulb.
Discard any wounded, diseased or damaged bulbs.
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Next, allow the bulbs to dry
off and "cure". This may be leaving them on a picnic
table in the sun for a day or in a dry, location in
the shade. Do not allow them to dry excessively but
they should not be wet when put into storage.
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Gently brush off any
remaining soil. Do not wash them in water at this
point in the process. Some people recommend dusting
them with a powdered
fungicide.
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Preparing for
Storage |
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Store only healthy bulbs.
Discard any that have wounds, signs of disease or
insect damage or mechanical damage from digging.
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The key to storage is to keep
the plant material cool enough so it does not grow
or rot and warm enough so it does not freeze. It
also must be moist enough so that the bulbs do not
dry out but dry enough to that they do not rot.
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Use clean shallow trays,
plastic containers or sturdy cardboard boxes.
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Put a layer of dry sand, dry
sawdust, peat moss,
perlite or
vermiculite in the
bottom of the container.
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Lay the bulbs on the surface
of this layer and be sure that one bulb is not
touching another to prevent the spread of rot from
one plant to another.
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Cover the bulbs with another
layer of the material.
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Repeat the process
alternation layers until the container is filled.
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Label each layer if the bulbs
are a different variety or species and label the
container too.
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Storing the Bulbs. |
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A temperature of between 40
and 50 degrees F is usually considered ideal for
storing bulbs.
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If you have a small volume of
bulbs, you might use an old refrigerator in the
garage or basement.
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A root cellar would be the
best but few of us have them now.
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An unheated 3 season type
porch will do in most years.
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An unheated but attached
garage will often suffice.
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Periodically open the
containers and check the bulbs. If there is any sign
of rot, remove the infected bulbs and make sure the
media is dry before returning to storage.
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Planting Tender
Bulbs, Corms, Tubers and Roots |
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Storage Requirements of Common Tender Bulbs |
Name |
Structure |
°F. |
Storage |
Digging |
Achimenes |
rhizomes |
45-50 |
Store cool
and dry. |
Dig
when leaves turn yellow
and let dry after digging. |
Acidanthera |
corm |
35-40 |
Store the same as
gladiolus. |
Dig 6-8 weeks
after bloom |
Anemone or
Windflower
(A. Coronaria) |
tuber |
40-45 |
Store like
dahlias. |
Frequently sold as an autumn- planted bulb, but not winter-hardy in Minnesota. |
Tuberous
begonia
(B. Tuberhybida) |
tuberous roots |
50-55 |
Remove foliage and store in sphagnum peal or
vermiculite. |
Dig when
foliage turns yellow and cure with
foliage. |
Caladium |
tuber |
50-55 |
Cure with remaining foliage
and store in sphagnum peat or vermiculite. |
Dig when foliage turns yellow
or after frost has killed foliage. |
Calla
Lily (Zantedeschia) |
rhizomes |
50-56 |
Store in sphagnum peat
or vermiculite. |
Dig when foliage
turns yellow or when foliage is damaged by frost |
Canna |
tuberous roots |
40-50 |
Store in sphagnum peat, vermiculite
or sand. |
Dig after frost has
damaged foliage and allow foliage to dry a few days
before digging. Dig
carefully to avoid damage which will cause rotting.
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Dahlia |
tuberous roots |
40-50 |
Cure
carefully to avoid desiccation. Pack roots in
vermiculite or sphagnum peat. One recommended technique
is to place the roots in plastic bags with small
perforations and enclose an equal volume of vermiculite
or peat to absorb the moisture which is given off by the
roots. |
Dig after frost has
killed foliage or damaged foliage. Dig carefully to
avoid damage. |
Freesia |
corm |
35-40 |
Store the same as
gladiolus. |
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Gladiolus |
corm |
35-40 |
Store in labeled
paper bags. |
Dig 6 to 8 weeks after bloom or
when frost kills
foliage. Cure 2-3 weeks, then remove old
corm and cormels. Cure in a dry, well-ventilated area at
about 60°-7O°F. |
Gloriosa Lily
(Gloriosa superba) |
tuberous roots |
40-50 |
May be stored in
the pot or dig the tuberous roots and store like dahlias. May be
started
indoors again after 2 months storage. |
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Ismene
(Hymenocallis) |
bulb |
60-65 |
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Should be dug
before frost. Avoid breaking the heavy roots attached to
the bulb. |
Blazing Star (Tritonia) |
corm |
35-40 |
Store the same as
gladiolus. Do not break corm cluster apart
until spring. |
Dig before
freezing. |
Oxalis |
bulb |
35-40 |
Store in
paper bags or in vermiculite. |
Dig after
tops freeze |
Tigridia |
corm |
35-40 |
Cure and store like gladiolus. |
Dig 6-8 weeks after bloom or
after frost. |
Tuberose
(Polianthes) |
tuber |
55-65 |
Store
in plastic bags with sand or vermiculite. |
Dig after
tops die or are killed by frost |
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